Ok, i have been racing with your setup now for the last 3- 4 days and i must say it is fast. I have setup my momo wheel and haven't changed your setup at all. 1st 5 or so laps i'm in the 155-156 range then it dips to 153-154 range and stays there for quite a bit, now my question is i'm only getting about 35-40 laps on my tires before the right front goes red. Did i read right that you were getting 60 laps with the same tires? If so what could be the probelm? I have to drive with aids on as i get much better times with them then without them. I guess i just need more practice without aides but my race is wed night and i just don't have the time. Will aids eat up your tires more? I'm entering turn 1-2 at 145-150 hold it at 141-143 then get on the gas late and the same through 3-4 so i don't think that is what's chewing my tires. Thanx for the help.

Thanks for the set ups, they are great. U dont know how much frustration i had trying to get a set up for this track, it was driving me crazy. Quick question, is it normal for the car to bottom out the whole run?

My car bottoms out in the corners if i have the right line but not along the straights, that just isn't right.

I think that's what racecardriver was actually referring to...yes, bottoming out in the turns is completely usual.

@ dallas:
Well, that's a bad reason for using aids...sounds a bit like punting people off because that helps you to finish ahead of them.
However, it can't be the driving aids that wear your tires down so quickly. I can do a fuel run on tires w/o any problems if I look after them a bit, that means about 90 laps I think. Were you maybe running with pit frequency x2?

Yes, Volker, we run 2x pit frequency. I am assuming you are setup for 1x so all I have to say is thank god! I am practicing all tonight without any aids on so we will see how it goes.

sorry double post.

Well Volker, You were completely right. After turning off all driving aids last night i was hitting 158's pretty consistently. What a difference once you learn to drive it that way. The only thing i changed in your qualify setup was to lower the grill tape to 80%, 100% just made it waaaayyyy to loose for me.

1 question i had for you was in the race setup i changed the caster to 4.00/1.00 and it handles the corners much better, with little to no push, mid to late turn. I get about a 1 mph increase with this setup rather then the 6.00/-2.00 setup. Probably my newbness in driving without aids and such but hey it works for me My question is will this setup cause more then normal tire wear? I haven't tested my tire wear yet, that's tonight. I was just wondering what your take on it would be.

Tire wear will be about the same, I use that caster because it's faster and more driveable. Reducing the caster split will loosen it which is nice for the first 60ish laps, but after that point the car will get real loose unless you've roasted your RF tire. If you need a sprint setup, move a click or two of weight back instead (2 for 40 laps, 1 for 40-60 laps).

Well raced Dover last night, got Pole position but finished a very dissapointing 4th place. My car was actually "too fast" if you can believe that. I was having to get off the throttle earlier and get on alot later due to slow traffic. I crashed with about 40 laps to go when i had pitted, had fresh tires was hitting the turn at 150 and another driver who had yet to pit was going 125. Tapped the brakes, which i have never had to do with your setup, i just ease off and back on the gas. Hitting the brakes caused me to get way loose and spin into the wall. Ending any chance of victory and totally pissing me off. At least we get to race Dover again in the "Race for the Championship" and i will learn from my mistakes.......patience!

love the setup...couldnt win but came close..tightened up after 20 laps.

It is amazing how you don't find that Q setup twitchy. I had to change the RF caster becasue The only way I could keep it off the wall was to back off.

Not bitching, just frustrated

I love the 6/-2 setting at most racks. But at Dover I just can't find it.

For TRIV, try moving 5/10/15 pounds forward in Q, practice it and then begin moving the weight back, works for me. In Q after you turn to enter you won't be turning left much at all. Rippen fast set Volker, love it.

THE IRON MAN

The key is driving low and pretty slow in the centre...the fastest way around is the shortest one, and with a more loosy setup the car would get loose during the transition between braking into the turn and getting back on the throttle in the centre of T1/2.

UPDATE
Stiffer front springs.

i just have to say thank you again for your work that you do for us nobrainers on setups (where have you heard that before sunday afternoon) . our league has just started our CHASE for the cup (a 9 race run ) and with me missing more then a few races due to work i am 12th in the chase standings .

with your setup i was able to lead a lap ,and lead the most laps (over 100 laps) (200 lap race realistic weather ,incar view only true hardcore league ) but i only finish in 2nd as the winner past me on the last lap and i tried 1 more shot to win but couldn't do it . come to find out he beat me with one of your other setups , i told him after the race you had a new one out .

thank you again

Brian B#116

racersgarage.com also teamcanusa.com

Any changes to the set-up for a 40% race (all other parameters default)?

Do people normally go for 1 or 2 pit stops in a 40% race?

What does changing the pit stop frequency do to the game? How does it affect the game?

Thanks for the set-ups! It makes me understand that I still have to practice a lot...

no


40% is 160 laps? Both might work if cautions are switched off, not sure. If you race with cautions, pit more or less whenever you can.


Tire wear and fuel consumption are increased (doubled, tripled, quadrupled) according to the multiplier you set the pit frequency to. The result is that you have to pit more often, and as the tire temperatures always climb and drop as slowly as with PF x1, the handling might go nuts.