UPDATE
I tightened the race setup by moving 5 lbs forward, it snapped loose too often when I had backdraft (usually after 6-8 laps).

I was finally able to get an online race in last night at Michigan. It was a 20 lap race. I tried your newest version and I was a bit rusty I just got in under the wire. I played it cool for the first 10 laps I was just taking the draft and I was running 36.8's and 9's then I made my move and I blew right by them for the next 5 laps. All of a sudden the car got a bit tight. Maybe even though I wasnt killing the car, maybe the times earlier hurt the tires. Either way I was in the 37.4 bracket at the end. I am going to try again tonight with your real loosy goosy one and then I am going to try your first one. Thx again for sharing.

The more loosy version is probably better for the kind of race you described, but it gets too loose if there is nobody in front and the driver behind you is running nose to tail. I had the problem myself several times and I wasn't the only one:
I was on a public server and raced somebody who also used my setup. At the beginning I was leading, but then I got loose after a few laps, had to catch the car and he passed me. Then all I had to do was driving close to his bumper (less than a foot probably) and he couldn't hold the car on track because of the aero-loose effect.
Well, and as I don't want that to happen to me, I use a tighter version now.

But the forum wont let me start a new thread..
Anyway do you have a set for Milwaukee that you could share? Or suggest one of your other's that would work good there? Thanks

Volker, Please check your email. I have sent you something :-D. I think you'll really be proud of it

I was able to get a 30 lap race at Michigan. I qualified 2nd 30 cars approx. I used you first setup you posted. I finished 2nd over 4 sec behind. I thought If I took an easy I would be able to catch the leader but the joke was on me. Car seemed pretty good. I don't know I am going to now try your loosy goosy one but I think you are right though. Even with your first one there was a couple of times where I felt the rear just twitch with a car behind me. I will try it anyway though.

I made BGN setups for the ESCORS LAN, but they were crap. I changed my setup between warmup and race and it worked quite well (which means I could keep the car on track) , but (I hope) they're still on Andy Wilke's PC. Adjust the gearing and the setups will also work for cup.
I need to catch Andy on ICQ to get them, in the meantime you could already give me your e-mail address.


@ J_Gordon24
I got your e-mails yesterday evening (I didn't check them earlier), but I had a race last night, so I could not try your setups yet. I'll do that later today.

Hehe, when reading thru here it looks like you and Mikey either like that track very much or you guys have too much time on your hands, hehe.

But instead of backbiting I should thank you, a real nice setup as it seems.

But I have a question. Why do you use trackbars of 8.5 on both sides? Do you set them that low because this setting alone gives you a benefit (e.g. more traction), or do you run them that low to be able to loosen it on some other setting as the benefit of that setting suits you more/is simply faster?

Normally I run with a split of about 0.5 to 1.0 at least, as I like it when the car gets a little looser when I slam the gas.

Hehe, if you talk about racing, Michigan is the best track in the game, that's why so many people like it.

I use that flat track bar simply because of speed, (for me) it's better / faster if I leave the track bar low and move weight back or add rear spring split instead.

Volker,

First, thanks for sharing your sets. I do very well with them, whether short, speedway, or superspeedway runs. I'm hoping you have time for a possibly long answer, as I'm horrible with car setup. I have a 100% Michigan race coming, with real weather. What are your recommended changes to the race set (not worried about qual in that long a race, though if you have time, qual set help would be good too) for cooler, warmer, and cloudy conditions? Thanks again for giving us great sets to run.

tac

It's hard to find real rules of thumb, a big part of adjusting a setup to different weather settings is just trial and error, but that's what the warmup session is good for.

If temperatures are higher than 70°F, you have to take off some tape and maybe increase diff ratio. If temperatures are lower or if you're running with cloudy weather, you have to reduce diff ratio, that's clear.

Rules of thumb for tape / gearing adjustments:
- 5% tape per 10°F
- 1 click of diff ratio per 20°F
- cloudy instead of clear: reduce diff ratio by 2 and tape by 1 click (on most tracks; if two possible diff ratio values are very close to each other you might have to reduce it by 3 clicks)

After finding good settings for tape and gearing, the final step is finding a good balance. That's the trial & error part about it as weather changes influence the handling in a different way on the different kinds of tracks.

Colder or cloudy weather means that the atmospheric pressure is higher which means that more air hits the car. The results are more downforce (mainly at the back of the car), more drag and more engine power as more fuel can be burned. Higher temperatures have the opposite effects, of course.

More downforce at the back makes the car tight overall and more power loosens it in the middle and at the exit. The additional power is usually more important, cool or cloudy weather will make the car tight at the entry and loose when you're back on the throttle. And as cars will spin most likely at the exit, you'll have to tighten the car and make the best of the tightness entering the turns if the weather is cold (in most cases). Use front bias or track bar (keep the bar flat though, that means make both sides (nearly) equal) to adjust the car's balance, you will rarely need more than 2 clicks.

If the weather is very cold (in the 40s or even below) and / or cloudy, you might get another problem on many tracks: The car will bottom out too badly due to increased downforce. In that case stiffen the front springs by 50 lbs each and increase front bias by an additional click (yes, stiffer front springs make the car loose).


There's an exception for Michigan:
If it turns cloudy, reducing the diff ratio by just one click is enough because the gap between those diff ratio values is really big.

Understood on all. Thanks for the reply--I guess it's testing time.

Just wanted to let you know I trasfered your Michigan setup to CTS and moved the wieght forward 4 clicks and it worked great! I ran it in my online league last night and finished 3rd, I lead 20 laps, just not the last 20 laps. Thanks!

I try your setups first before anything else and always come back to your setups. My racing has much inproved due to your setups.

Thank you
Larry Sheldon
Keep up the good work

Aah, so this is where you've been getting your speed from, eh Mikey?

Ehhh, Do I know you?

Would like to see a 5 lap replay if possible, I know it's starting to get old, but I'm everyone else would appreciate it also!!!

id tell ya how the set is but there was nothing in the file