Logitech MOMO Force Feedback

Hi everyone,

Yesterday I took a day off - no racing. Today I'll be uploading a new replay + setup at night, but before that - I'll post now some very good tips for configuring the Logitech MOMO Force Feedback wheel. Some of you might already use something similar, but when I first tried these configurations I was so surprised by how easier and better to drive it was, and the lap times came down.

So, let's go... guess it can be still called a "quick guide".

First of all, for who's playing on Hardcore Mode. If you ever find to have your front too lose, or it's to hard to put the front of the car where you really want, might be Steering Linearity configuration. Try to drop that to 60% as a start. The main point after all is to keep it at max at 60%, never more than that. Worth a try!

Now, for everyone...

On Windows go: Start > Settings > Control Panel > Game Controllers

Double click on the MOMO wheel, and then Settings (can be found in the bottom right). Now, set this options:

Combined - unticked (means not checked box)
That will enable both pedals to work togheter, I guess everyone already did that.

Enable Force Feedback - ticked (means to check the box)
As the name says, it will allow to have Force Feedback

Overall Effects Strenght - 97%
It's better and easier to have 97% then 100%. At the same time, it is said that using it in 100% may occur oscillations during your drive.

Spring Effects Strenght - 0%
No games from Papyrus use this feature, it will just give you problems.

Damper Effects Strenght - 0%
This is a MUST. Don't ever use other value of it. It will just twitch the wheel and bring some unreal difficulties for you. Papyrus simulators don't use it either.

Enable Centering Spring - ticked (means to check the box)
That's harder to explain, but shortly what will happen using the following configurations with this box unticked is some strange forces on the wheel that will sometimes be too hard and suddently give it away.

Centering Spring Strenght - 0%
That's about the above question.

Then, done with settings here. Go open your Profiler program.

Set your Nascar 2003 settings as it follows:

Steering Wheel Sensitivity - 33%
Dropping this a little from the Default will give a better feeling and it will be easier to do any further configurations on the wheel. When using it as 50%, everything is too sensitive to any small adjustments. It will also give a more smooth drive, as you'll finally be able to in fact use your MOMO wheel radius. Normally, before that, we used around 10-15 degrees maxing - now you'll use more. In short, you'll have a more precise driving. Start using this at 33%, but you can always drop it even more if you enjoy the effect and really fits you. Until 25% is still an improvement.

Steering Wheel Deadzone - 2%
It will give a help to prevent any twichtes and oscillations when driving.

Accelerator Sensitivity - 55%
It will give a more precise acceleration, and easier as well. Sometimes, when using 50%, the car is too nervous on corner exits (mainly in Trans-Am, or CUP in road corses) - you barely press the throttle pedal and you are already losing traction. This option will help you with that.

Accelerator Deadzone - 2%
Like the steering setting, this will help you out with any over sensitive throttle. In other words, it will be easier to reach full throttle and hold it.

Brake Sensitivity - 55%
Same as with the accelerator, but now working on brakes. It will help you on a more precise braking, preventing suddently lock wheels and giving a better feeling when braking. In other words, going higher on this value gives a less immediate braking pressure.

Brake Deadzone - 2%
Just like the others.

That's it with the Profiler as well. Now go open your Nascar 2003.

Go to: Options > Controls tab

Enable the Force Feedback.
Use this setting between 35-100.
The most common value to use is 60. Although, this will change from track to track, depending on the setup you use and track configurations. Of course, that's not a fix value, you can use it however you want from 35-100 that it's OK - just find the right force for you.
The objective here is to obtain the highest force while keeping it smooth. If it's too much, drop it. If you feel it's too low, get it higher until you find it's too much and the wheel is kinda pushing you away - then you drop a little.
Smoothness is what you want here.

Leave Damping always off.
With the settings we adjusted earlier here, you won't have any oscillations that would apply a Damping setting here. So, that will be always off. In case you feel any oscillations when exiting a corner (and the Force Feedback force changes doesn't help), then you can add a little bit in here, but that's rare and I bet it won't happen. As well, never use the Damping setting in the Game Controllers settings, it will destroy your performance. If you ever feel need of it, change it inside the game, right where we are now.

Leave Latency off as well.
It will not help on anything with the configurations we setted earlier. Besides, it will give you unreal forces. If you really find that the forces are coming too late, just like when having lag or something, increase this a tick. Don't ever go for more then 20.

Well, that's it...

I hope it helps everyone - it helped me a lot.
Drive some laps, get used to the new feeling, and hunt down your lap times.

If you have any questions, doubts or impressions, post down here and I'll do my best to help you out with it.

The idea of the guide was first made by Chad Sparks. I just used my own words and feelings to re-write it and keep it here for all to read. That way, if someone has problems with it, I can try to help it out thru here.

Let's race!

I've tried those settings, and went a little further and set linearity at 100% and in the profiler the steering sensitivity and deadzone at 0%. At first it was weird to handle but I sort of got used to it, it basically allows for much more movement on the wheel.
Have you tried something like this and if so would you recommend it, or do you think it's better to stay between the limits of that setup?

Well...

I use the Steering Linearity at 87% for every track except for Coca-Cola, Super Speedways and Road Corses - so I'm like you on that.

Steering Sensitivity on 0%? Oh well, I am not sure if this would fit me. I was always used to drive on 50%, and bringing it down to 33% was already a big step. Of course, that goes from different driving styles. If it fits you and your lap times are not worst, than you can assume that it was a positive change. About the Deadzone at 0% I think it's OK to use it. I always drove with Steering Sensitivity at 50% and Deadzone at 0% - so from 0% to 2% was not a big jump.

For me, the setting posted above really fits me. I don't think that 0% for both there would work better for me, honestly.

Also, are you playing Road Corses or Ovals? Settings might be different for each kind of track. Sometimes when driving Ovals the Deadzone at 2% wasn't fitting me cause the car reaction was too slow - you know what I mean.

In few words - if you feel good with the configuration and it doesn't affect your lap times in a negative way, that's perfect to use and recommendable, of course.

I haven't tried the 0% setting on road courses.
About the sensitivity setting, you're right, at first when you go from 50 to 33 and then to 25, if you want to try, it feels that you have to turn the wheel too much, but when you try it out for a while and get used to it, your lap times don't really improve much, at least it didn't for me, but you get a lot of precision on your car, that's how I felt with the 0% setting.
Also the deadzone, was the biggest thing that hurt me, not because it slowed me down, but because at times when running close to other cars, I would end up hitting them, the wall or the apron, so that 2% deadzone might be a not a good thing on those settings.
All in all the 0% settings just give more precision, I think they're worth the try, only that you have to try them for a while so that you get settled in them.

That's true.

But honestly, running 2% on Deadzone is not a problem for Road Corses, and having the possibility to have more precision there is awesome. Anyway, I take your idea very well and I'll test it for sure and post my feedback of it down here.

Are you racing mainly Ovals then?

I am focused in Road Corses, so the feedback I am posting might work only for those tracks - you know what I mean.

I am always after some more precision settings, so I might test yours on Road Corses as well.

I tried 25% for me there and I felt it was too much, at least for Silverstone. I had to use too much wheel and sometimes I missed the point, it was not working properly so I got up to 30% again and it was better.

It also depends on the track you drive as we can see...

I guess 25% works good for Ovals, you won't have a touchy car for sure.

Thanks for your ideas and feedbacks, it will for sure help us and everyone to find new ideas about that!

Well, I made a mistake, sorry. I thought about it, and remembered that I turned off the deadzone after I went all the way down to 0% on sensitivity, I also tested these settings at Infineon and that might make you move the wheel too much, you can get a better feel by setting the deadzone at 0% and then trying to lower the sentivity, after some testing I liked the sensitivity at 25% and 0% deadzone, I loved the precision I got with this. I also set the deadzone for the pedals at 0%, but I haven't tested it everywhere, only at Atlanta, Indy, Tona & Dega and it gives you very good handling, I noticed it the most when pitting. It appears that the 2% deadzone might hurt more than help.
Sorry again if I made anybody waste their time with the settings I gave earlier, after thinking about them, they might be useful for some styles, setups or tracks, but you should try these ones first, especially the 0% deadzone.

Hummm... that's OK.

I guess the 2% Accelerator Deadzone is a good choice for Trans-Am at least. Normally you have more gears to shift and the engine has more torque, so it helps you to get a better feeling. For Brakes Im not sure if it's better or not - I am using it still anyway. For the Steering I think it's more precise anyway because it avoids a lot of not-wanted-sliding from middle-corner to the exit.

The Sensitivity I am keeping it at around 30% now.

I will test your settings when I get back to test some CUP so we can clear any doubts.

Is there anyone else using different Momo settings?

Post them here so we can compare everybody's choices, please.

in game ff 10% latency damping 0%...profiler settings affects 10% damping 0 spring 70% everything else default....eg sensitivty on pedals 55% 0 deadzone 100% range

Is that:

Inside game configurations:
Force Feedback - 10%
Latency - 0%
Damping - 0%

What do you mean by "profiler settings affects 10%" please?

Hummm, could you please write that better? Sorry.

I personally use the same setup as posted above, except I uncheck forcefeedback in the game and run 33% on the centering force in the profiler. I prefer having the wheel return to center instead of the forcefeeback even if it makes me fight the wheel just a little down the straights on the ovals. I don't like fighting the wheel, and I find some track/setup combinations force me to adjust the force setting to get the feel that I like. I also use 100% sterring linearity at most tracks.

That's good to know.

I'll test this one too. I think it will work good for me as well cause I don't like that Force Feedback working like that either.

So, you are just keeping the settings I posted above, but you turn the Centering Spring Strenght to 33% instead of 0%, and turn the Force Feedback off inside the game. Is that correct?

Do you turn the Force Feeback off inside the game or in the Profiler btw?

I turn the force feedback back off in the game only, I leave it checked on and at 96% in the profiler because it goes between 96-98% and won't let me select 97%. The rest is correct.

Happens with me as well, can't set it at 97%

Ok, thanks for the info. I'll test this night!

I know this is an older post, but I just wanted to say thanks for posting these settings. All I changed for personal prefrence was getting rid of the 2% deadzone on the wheel, other then that I'm running what's posted above. I picked up almost .3 tenths at Lowes doing a back to back test.

Thanks again for posting.

Quilfying online for the Coca-cola race was pitaful. I was getting beat on the straights and I would close in on the turns. Using Volker Hackmann setups. I think the problem is with my throtle pedal. I set up momo exactly as decribed on this website, Romove/install logitech software. Deleted all calibrations. It feels like I have a four cylinder. My calibration numbers for my accerator is 255 to 0. I have read after prolong use that the throtle decrease 5% to 10%. It apparently remembers the data and if there is a problem, the problem will continuly get worse. There has to been a reason why all other driver pull away down a long staightaway like the Coca-Cola track. Does anybody have any ideas. before I purchase a Logitech G25. I just want more throtle.

I've had issues with my MOMO wheel and pedals. Well I don't really know if its and issues. I race Whelen Modifieds and I set my profiler the way it told me to. I got the info from this site. I just have to ask these few questions.
1. I practice with other cars and they just pull away from me after about a lap.

2. Do I have to set any settings in the game as well differently after doing the profiler

Maybe someone can help me. It would be greatly appreciated

http://web.axelero.hu/mozso/momo_m.html

It's really quite an easy procedure as all you've gotta do is wrap 2 rounds of electric tape around the rotating shafts of the pedals, apply some vaseline around the shafts, then slot the potentiometers back in place firmly as they were, and put the cover back on, and you should be able to make them pots work like new for another 6-8 months of weekly usage as what you're experiencing is simply due to the shafts moving up and down in their places which the added thickness provided by the electric tape will rectify.

I race F1 on RFactor and F1 Challenge. Is there a way to setup the wheel to prevent unwanted downshifts into Reverse (other than paying attention )

Have read in some of the threads about setting Linearity. I don't know where this adjustment is in either of the above games and what is it.

Thanks for you help in advance ..... great forum

Hi, can anyone tell me how they assign the shift/gears settings on their Momo in rfactor?

I'm not quite sure how to set the gears.

Thanks,
chunter